Ultimate guide to planning an Ikara - Flinders Ranges trip with a toddler
The Flinders Ranges is on Adnyamathanha Country.
This guide is ABSOLUTELY for you if…
You’re travelling with a toddler (aged roughly 1 - 3 years) AND
It’s your first time travelling to the Flinders Ranges
If you’re…
Travelling with a baby:
This guide is probably still very useful, but you’ll need to adjust your activities for 2, 3 or more naps a day.
Travelling with a little kid (under 8yo):
No more naps! Hurray! You might be able to squeeze a few more activities in. These itineraries will still suit you well though, it’s hard work being an over-scheduled / over-tired kid.
A first time traveller to the Flinders Ranges (with big kids or no kids):
You’ll be able to fit way more in a day than these itineraries suggest. The highlights and planning information is probably still useful for you!
And if you’ve been to the Flinders Ranges before but it’s your first time travelling with a young child:
This is also - perhaps, especially in some ways - for you. It’s a bit of a shock just how slow travel with little kids can be - but there’s a wonderful side to slow travel too.
Anyone else, if you’ve made it this far, you may as well keep going!
Stunning views along Acacia Ridge Walk at Arkaroola, in the Northern Flinders Ranges. We got a lot of use out of our Osprey Poco Plus baby carrier in the Flinders Ranges to carry our 17 month-old.
First time travelling to the Flinders Ranges? These are the highlights!
Wilpena Pound / Ikara
The heart of Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park (NP), if it’s your first time to the Flinders Ranges you absolutely must spend some time here.
Ikara (the rightful Adnyamathanha name) means ‘meeting place’ and so it remains today, attracting tens of thousands of visitors each year.
The best way to experience Wilpena Pound is to walk it.
For an easy family walk, take the 1 km / 2 hours return ‘Living with Land’ trail with signage for Wilpena Pound’s pastoral history. Or stroll along Wilpena Creek, turning back when you’re ready.
If you’ve got a baby carrier and a reasonable level of fitness, the Hills Homestead is an easy walk however at 6.6 km return (2 hours).
It’s best if you’ve had some practice carrying your toddler a similar distance. There’s toilet and a picnic ground - a great spot for a snack or lunch break.
Feeling fit? Continue from Hills Homestead to the Wangara Lookout hike.
This becomes a 7.8 km return walk with a suggested time of 3.5 hours. I’d add extra time to this walk for a snack / lunch break at the picnic grounds before tackling the steep lookout portion.
Arkaroo Rock / Akurra Adnya
On the edge of Ikara - Flinders Ranges National Park, Arkaroo Rock is a beautiful and well-preserved example of Aboriginal rock art. The paintings illustrate the Adnyamathanha creation story of Wilpena Pound.
The hike to the rock shelter is 3 km, 2 hours return with a short, steep section at the beginning of the trail. It was quite wet when we visited and so there were large puddles to dodge along sections of the track.
There are lovely views on the return of the walk, so it’s best to complete the walk on a clear day.
There is a toilet and picnic bench at the carpark with no other facilities along the walk.
Sections of this walk would be okay for your toddler to hike too but it would be pretty slow going. We let our 17 month-old have a play at the rock shelter platform and stopped long enough for a snack to keep her happy in the carrier for a couple hours.
The only photo I got of the beautiful Brachina Gorge in the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park. Our toddler fell asleep pretty soon afterwards and there were no more stops until she woke up!
Brachina Gorge
Still within the Ikara - Flinders Ranges NP, Brachina Gorge is a very scenic drive featuring an impressive geological trail - ‘a corridor through time’.
There are multiple stops along the way, with signage to learn about and admire the geological sites.
A significant geological site is the Ediacaran Golden Spike, a small marker of the Flinders Ranges importance in the global geological record.
You’ll need to turn off Brachina Gorge, park and walk to get to the Golden Spike site. It’s worth a look if you’re heading to the Nilpena Ediacara National Park (see my review here).
Ideally you’ll want to stop and get out of the car at each site. If this is proving too difficult with a toddler in tow, the drive is worth it for the scenery alone. Our toddler fell asleep during the drive and no rock formation was worth the risk of waking her up!
There’s a few campgrounds along the way with toilets and picnic benches - a good spot for a snack or lunch break. There’s generally a clearer and safer area to let a toddler run around than through the busy creek bed.
If you’re keen to spot a Yellow-Footed Rock Wallaby, Brachina Gorge is the place! We were fortunate to visit during a time of plentiful rain and spotted several groups of wallabies along the high gorge walls.
It’ll take a full morning or afternoon to drive Brachina Gorge and stop at all the sites for a good look.
Bunyeroo Gorge
This is another scenic drive and includes the famous Razerback lookout. It joins Brachina Gorge about half-way along.
If you’ve like to see both gorges in their entirety, travel Bunyeroo Gorge first then drive along one half of Brachina Gorge before doubling-back to see the whole geological trail.
The western end of Brachina Gorge (turning left from Bunyeroo Gorge) is most scenic, so if you’re going to double-back this will be prettiest in either direction.
The eastern end of Brachina Gorge (turn right out of Bunyeroo Gorge) is the intended “start” of the Geological trail with the earliest rock formations. You’ll pass the Yellow-Footed Rock Wallaby viewing area twice, meaning an extra chance to catch a sighting.
Aroona Valley
We visited this pretty valley on our first trip to the Flinders Ranges. It’s a scenic drive to the Aroona Homestead Ruins, another spot to gain perspective on the early years of European settlement in the Flinders Ranges. Access is from Brachina Gorge road.
Moralana Scenic Drive
The Moralana Scenic Drive is 28km of dirt road, connecting the Outback Highway to Flinders Ranges way. Moralana Gorge Road is what you’ll find it called on maps. The views of the ranges are excellent and even completed on an overcast, heavy cloud day, it’s worth doing (although, of course, clear skies are better!).
This road has numerous creek crossings and the road condition varies. You’ll find information on the SA Outback Roads report, including warnings and restrictions. The times we’ve driven the road, it’s been a bit rough so I wouldn’t do this drive in a 2WD or towing an on-road trailer.
Our toddler loved seeing the Yellow Footed Rock Wallabies at Arkaroola, Flinders Ranges. It was too difficult to point them out on the high gorge walls, they’re well camouflaged with their beautiful markings.
Blinman
Blinman is an old copper mining town turned tourist hotspot in the Flinders Ranges. With a few places of interest, Blinman is well-worth a day trip - there’s even a tiny playground! Take a tour of Blinman Mine, pick up a delicious treat from the bakery and then head around the corner to Wadna.
Wadna is an Adnyamanthanha family-business selling beautiful paintings and amazing hand-crafted pieces. It’s the perfect place to pick up a meaning souvenir of your time in the Flinders Ranges. They also offer amazing cultural tours (continue reading for more detail).
Can you take a toddler on the Blinman Mine Tour? Sure can! Check out this post for our experience and tips touring the mine with a 1 year old.
Parachilna Gorge
A beautiful drive, with an option to see Glass Gorge as well. Parachilna Gorge is one of the limited free camping spots in the Flinders Ranges and it’d be hard to find a more spectacular location to camp.
A 4WD is often necessary to access Parachilna gorge, particular after rain.
Parachilna
Home to Prairie Hotel and its famous ‘Ferral Platter’. The menu has a wonderful mix of feral, native and regional produce and honestly, every item sounds delicious. The Prairie Hotel also offer tours and accomodation packages.
Hawker
An excellent stop on your way to the Flinders Ranges - you’ll want to stop again on the way home. There’s a fully-fenced playground and an excellent breakfast / lunch / coffee option at Flinders Food Co. If you’ve got time to spare, check out Jeff Morgan’s panoramic paintings in the his gallery. This is also your last free and easy spot to fill tanks with drinking water.
Our second stunning scenic flight, and our toddler’s first flight ever. Nothing beats seeing the landscape from the air, especially such a rugged, mountainous region as the Flinders Ranges.
Bucket-list Worthy Extras
Flinders Ranges Scenic Flight
A scenic flight over any part of the Flinders Ranges is a perfect way to see the rugged landscape and experience its vastness. Our scenic flight over Wilpena Pound for 30 minutes was a great introduction to the area on our first visit. Our toddler rocked her first flight over Arkaroola on our most recent trip!
Find more information on choosing a scenic flight in the Flinders Ranges.
Quick tips for scenic flights with a toddler:
Pick a short flight
Fly first thing in the morning or after a nap
A clean nappy, food and some 1:1 time before the flight buys you some toddler goodwill
Watch an aeroplane take off, show photos or watch a video to explain going on a flight to your toddler
Adnyamathanha (Aboriginal) Culture Tour
I desperately wanted to do at least one cultural tour during some part of our recent Flinders Ranges trip. We travelled during school holidays on fairly late notice so everything was pretty much booked out.
I managed to book a tour in Nepabunna (in the Northern Flinders) and then roads closed again due to rain. I guess we’ll just have to come back!
On my touring wish list:
Yura Udnyu / Our Culture, Your Culture
A walking tour from Wilpena Pound Resort with a local Yura guide to Old Wilpena Station. This tour combines the pastoral history of the area with the rich Adnyamathanha perspectives, culture and history.
Two hours duration and an easy to moderate 2 km walk.
Adult ticket, $47.00 / Child ticket, $37.00.
Sacred Canyon
Another tour booked through Wilpena Pound Resort, you’ll join a local Yura guide to walk through Sacred Canyon - a highly significant site for the Adnyamathanha people. See the ancient rock engravings and learn how they were made and why they’re important to the Adnyamathanha people.
Sacred Canyon was previously open to the public and closed in April 2020 for the ongoing preservation of the site. Access is now by guided tour only.
Two hour duration, 2 km easy to moderate walk.
Adult ticket, $95.00 / Child ticket, $75.00
Wadna
A family-owned business, Wadna offers guided tours with Adnyamathanha man Kristian Coulthard. There’s a variety of tours to choose from and options to tailor tours to your specific interests for large groups. Every single review I’ve read absolutely raves about these tours and they book out several months in advance.
Wadna is located along Parachilna Gorge Road, just around the corner from Blinman.
Adult ticket, $95.00 / Child ticket, $45
Children under 5 are free!
The following tours are well North of Wilpena Pound so check out the driving distances before making any bookings.
Nepabunna
I had booked a half-day tour with a local guide in Nepabunna exploring the significant cultural and historical sites in the area. They also offer full-day tours. The tour packages are very flexible - you can choose which sites you want to visit and let your guide know if you have any special interests, like scenery, dreaming stories or art.
If you’re planning a tour with a Nepabunna guide, I highly recommend the book ‘Yura and Udnyu, A history of the Adnyamathanha of the North Flinders Ranges’ by Peggy Brock as the history of the town and its significant sites are discussed in detail.
There’s no pricing available, as it’s totally depending on the length and breadth of your tour. Our half day tour for 4 adults visiting 3 sites was very reasonably priced and worked around $40.00 each. Payment is on the day of your tour.
Contact information to arrange a tour can be found on the Nepabunna website.
Iga Warta
Iga Warta has the most amazing little museum with artefacts, stories, pictures and photographs of the local Aboriginal history and ongoing celebration of Adnyamathanha culture. It must have taken hours upon hours of work to pull the exhibits and all the information together and it’s beautifully presented.
I can only imagine a tour from a locally guide would be excellent too. Similarly to Nepabunna, the tours are arranged and priced on a group by group basis to allow for flexibility.
Contact information to arrange a tour can be found on the Iga Warta website.
Quick tips for guided tours with a toddler:
Tour durations of 2 hours or less are much, much easier to manage
Avoid nap times and meal times (unless you can feed your child during the tour)
Get to the tour early to have a snack, run around and prepare (we arrive 40 minutes early when possible!)
Our toddler coped well on the Mt Jacob Backtrack with a few stops, including a long stop for lunch and a run around. The Flinders Ranges is a family holiday with a lot of time spent in the car.
4WD tracks
The Flinders Ranges is probably equally well-known for its impressive driving tracks as its stunning scenery. To experience the ‘best’ tracks in the region, it’s likely you’ll have to pay for the privilege of driving through private property.
Some popular options for 4WDing:
Arkapena (arranged at neighbouring Rawnsley Park Station)
The prices vary, depending on whether you’re a paying guest at the station or just keen to drive their tracks.
It’s worth chatting to someone (staff, fellow camper) who knows the current track conditions as this can greatly change how long it takes to complete the drive.
It’s not such an issue if you’ve got all the time in the day, but when you’re travelling with a toddler it’s always good to know how long it’ll be before you get back to toys, snacks and the freedom to run around!
I liked this piece by 4WDing Australia as a quick overview of some of the 4WD tracks in the Flinders Ranges. They’ve written about their experiences on some tracks in more detail too.
You can find more about our recent trip to Arkaroola and the Northern Flinders here, including our experiences 4WDing in the area.
Quick tips for 4WD trips with a toddler:
Short is best (notice a theme?)
Be prepared to have an adult sitting in the back - they’re chief entertainer for the ride
Take advantage of clearings, creek beds, flat spots, etc for a break from the car
Pick a track with a special destination, stunning view or other highlight to make sure the trip is actually worth it!
Experience sunrise or sunset at a Flinders Ranges lookout
So this one isn’t expensive, unless you’re paying for a tour. However, getting up super early or travelling around dinner time / bedtime can be really tricky with a toddler.
It’s the emotional and energy investment that makes this an ‘extra’ - especially if you’re planning on sunrise, it sets the tone (and energy level) for the rest of the day.
Quick tips for making a sunrise lookout work with a toddler:
Pack a breakfast, don’t wait until you’re back at camp
Organise all bags, snacks, food, water bottles, cameras (everything!) the night before
Focus on enjoying the experience. The photos won’t probably look like your pre-kid photos and that’s okay.
Quick tips for making a sunset session work with a toddler:
Bring a meal with you (or plan to cook at the location if you can)
Pack your camp chairs and table to eat your meal comfortably
Plan to stay right through to dark! The best colours are usually 10-30 minutes after sun down, especially if there’s a few wispy clouds about
Bring toys, games, colouring, books to entertain your child. They don’t care about the scenery or the sunset. They want to spend time with you.
Put on insect repellent, even if you don’t think there’s mosquitos around. Sundown is prime time to get bitten.
You’ll need to be prepared for some slippery, stoney tracks to get the most out of the Flinders Ranges - whether that’s driving tracks or trails under your feet. It’s easier to drive with a toddler but the walks are doubly rewarding, even if it means carrying your young child the whole way.
How to plan your Flinders Ranges trip
“I have set dates / limited time to explore”
Decide your main activities and locations for your trip.
Work out if any of your activities need to be on a specific day or time. E.g. booking a tour, visiting a shop.
Book and/or add these into your schedule first.
Allocate all other activities to a day and time (or morning/afternoon)
Check out the locations on a map, take note of driving times and distances.
Plan your accomodation last as this is when you’ll know where most of your activities are going to be. Choose one central location if you’re short on time.
If possible, book tours, scenic flights and other similar activities early in your stay. This will allow a little flexibility to move things around if, for example, your tour is cancelled due to rain.
Consider booking accomodation for your entire trip if you have no flexibility in dates to avoid disappointment during peak times (e.g. South Australia’s winter (July) school holidays).
“I have no set dates / I can take as much time as I like to explore”
What do you want to see? Allocate activities to a morning / afternoon. Decide how busy to make your schedule.
Work out how many days you’ll need to travel and see everything at a comfortable pace.
Make any necessary bookings.
Choose your accomodation and book if required. If travelling during winter school holidays in SA, book all accomodation if possible.
“I have no sets dates and I travel full-time / live on the road”
Use the same steps as above to plan and then add an extra day or two. You’ll not regret it.
Plan for absolutely nothing or use them get a few jobs done (washing clothes, maintenance, showers).
And, you’ll have spare days to fit in that extra special activity or place you didn’t know existed until you were right there, and with time to spare too - lucky you.
Travelling with a toddler is slow. We see more of the beautiful country and develop a stronger connection to places now because we’re forced to take more time. Seeing the Flinders Ranges at a 1 year old’s pace is pretty special.
Suggested itineraries for travelling with a baby or toddler
These itineraries assume you’re staying somewhere close to Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park and fairly central to Wilpena Pound.
Check driving distances and times before planning and booking activities.
Suggested itinerary for 3 days
(Day 0) Hawker to Wilpena via Moralana Scenic Drive (4WD recommended)
With limited time to explore, consider taking the scenic route into the Flinders Ranges by driving Moralana Scenic Drive towards Wilpena Pound. You’ll need to check this suits your chosen camp spot or accomodation.
Mornings only:
Day 1: Wilpena Pound Walk
Day 2: Brachina Gorge
Day 3: Arkaroo Rock
Morning and afternoon activity:
Day 1: Wilpena Pound Walk / Sunset at lookout
Day 2: Brachina Gorge and Aroona Valley (full day)
Day 3: Arkaroo Rock / Blinman (no tour)
Suggested itinerary for 5 days
Day 1: Wilpena Pound Walk
Day 2: Brachina Gorge (and Bunyeroo Gorge / Aroona Valley)
Day 3: Arkaroo Rock
Day 4: Loop drive: Camp - Blinman - Parachilna Gorge - Parachilna - Moralana Scenic Drive - Camp
Day 5: Blinman Mine Tour
Considerations when planning your own successful itinerary:
Avoid a big driving day the day after or before a travel day when possible (especially if you need to spend several hour in the car to get to/from the Flinders Ranges)
Choose one activity a day when possible
Mix up walking/active and driving days where possible
Give yourself time to pack up on your last afternoon / morning
If you’re only doing an activity in the morning, what do afternoons look like?
Naps - for everyone if you like!
Quiet play time
Jobs / chores (washing, dishes, tidying, organising etc)
Socialising with other families / campers
Being ‘home’ to cook a meal
Watching the sunset together
Running around / play time before bed
Peaceful Beltana campground, all set up for a few days. Our toddler loved the little playground - they’re hard to find in the Flinders Ranges. Though small, it was great to have a designated ‘kid space’ at the campground.
Where can I camp in the Flinders Ranges?
There’s an abundance of camp spots in the Flinders Ranges, from station stays to free camps to campgrounds in the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National park.
Station Stays
Staying on a station is a great choice in the Flinders Ranges as it usually provides access to 4WD tracks, walking trails, gorges and waterholes on private property and it’s the only way to see these areas. Station stays vary, some provide full-sized caravan parks with power, water and dump points where otherwise are dispersed camping with no facilities in a natural bush setting.
Additionally, staying on a station usually brings you in touch with the locals - property owners, managers and staff who know the area well and can provide excellent advice to enrich your stay.
A popular choice for exploring the central Flinders Ranges - and a good alternative to Wilpena Pound Resort - is Rawnsley Park Station. Check out my review of our stay with a toddler for more information.
If you’re heading further North, we absolutely loved our stay at former station, Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary - it’s well worth a few extra days in your trip if you can manage it! Read how to make the most of your time at Arkaroola with a toddler.
Free Camping
Free camps in the Flinders Ranges are limited. Parachilna Gorge is a busy area however it has plenty of dispersed camping spots, including suitable spots for off-road camper trailers and caravans.
Camping in the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park
There’s no free or dispersed camping within the national park. Camp sites need to be booked online and cost $25.00 per night with one vehicle (and up to 7 people) allowed per site. Your park entry fee ($13.00) is included in your camp site fee. Book your camping online here.
Park entry is valid for the duration of your stay - however it’s a vehicle entry permit. If you leave the park to camp somewhere else and then re-enter, you’re required to pay an additional re-entry fee.
If you’re not camping in the national park, you’ll need to pay a vehicle entry fee for each day you choose to enter the park.
Choosing where to stay in the Flinders Ranges
Read through reviews on Wikicamps for recent and up-to-date information
Consider driving distances carefully when choosing your camp spot
Check road surface conditions before choosing a camp site, particularly if you’re not taking a 4WD with clearance
Plan your water usage, there’s exceptionally limited drinking water in the Flinders Ranges and no paid accomodation includes filling your tanks with drinking water. Access to showers and toilets, as well as non-portable water for dishes helps to conserve your drinking water supply
And most importantly, is this a safe place to spend extended time with a toddler?
Because no amount of pretty scenery makes up for an unsafe or uncomfortable campground when you’re travelling with a young child.
Fees and park passes
Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park requires a vehicle entry fee of $13.00 which must be paid for online before entering the park. If you’ve booked a camp site in the national park, your vehicle entry fee is included and you don’t need to pay an additional entry fee.
Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park is included in SA Parks 2-month and 12-month parks passes. If you’re planning to explore more of South Australia, it might be worth purchasing a pass. More information is more on the Parks SA website.
So, after all the work of planning, is it worthwhile travelling to the Flinders Ranges with a toddler?
Absolutely, yes! I loved our most recent trip to the Flinders Ranges and because we spent a month in the area and travelled slowly, I grew to appreciate the scenery, history and culture of the area more and more. Whilst most places aren’t family-friendly as such, it’s a wonderful region to spend time outdoors with your kid and develop their appreciation for our beautiful land and people.
Looking for more information on the Flinders Ranges? Check out these posts.
We acknowledge over 65,000 years of continuous care and custodianship of the Adnyamathanha people over these lands and waters. Their sovereignty has never been ceded. We pay respect to Elders past and present, and the Adnyamathanha people as the traditional and rightful owners of this Country.