Our family’s experience at Beltana, Flinders Ranges
Beltana is on Adnyamathanha Country.
Is Beltana worth a visit?
If you’re passing through the area, it’s worth a stop in at Beltana to walk through this State Heritage listed historic town.
Beltana has a rich history, being influential in establishment of the Overland Telegraph Line and construction of the Ghan railway line, as well as the home of the Royal Flying Doctor Service.
The signage around Beltana is nice and you can try to imagine the bustling railway town it once was.
Adnyamathanha people lived in the Flinders Ranges for centuries before the British invasion of Australia and subsequent white settlement. Adnyamathanha people still call Beltana home today. We acknowledge their continuing connection to land, language and culture.
All the buildings in Beltana are privately owned and occupied. When you’re walking around it’s important to remember that Beltana is not a “ghost town” but an active community and a treasured place and home.
As the buildings are privately owned, there’s no public funding to preserve this important place in South Australia’s history. Beltana’s new and carefully maintained facilities are funded and looked after by the town’s residents.
Planning to camp at Beltana? You’ll likely be rewarded with a spectacular outback sunset amongst the old buildings and ruins.
The realities of full-time travel as a family with a toddler - we have a lot of stuff. We enjoyed some beautiful sunsets at Beltana and it was great to have a designated ‘kid space’ in the campground. Sprout takes any chance to get her diggers out!
Camping at Beltana
Do I need to book a campsite at Beltana?
To camp at Beltana, you’ll need to book online through Hipcamp.
There is mobile/internet service in town if you’d prefer to book on arrival. There is no in-person or cash payment option.
How much does it cost to camp at Beltana?
A minimum cost of $30 per night, which allows for two adults.
Children 12 and under are free/have no additional cost.
Additional adults will cost extra and the Hipcamp service fee increases too. Sites are limited to one vehicle per booking and a maximum of six people per site.
It’s expensive for no water, power or dump point. I’m also surprised it’s not a capped $30 per night/per vehicle considering it’s already pretty pricey for unpowered camping.
Ammenities at Beltana
Beltana absolutely has the best campground ammenities so far in South Australia, winning us over with several unisex bathrooms that have a toilet, sink, mirror and shower.
It’s a real luxury when you’re camping to find a complete bathroom all to yourself, instead of running between toilet stalls, shower stalls and communal sinks.
The ammenities are also new, well-maintained and spotlessly clean. I was super impressed and can understand why Beltana is asking a higher price than many unpowered camping grounds.
The ammenities are in a fenced area behind the hall, with a gate on either side to provide both camp areas with access.
Does Beltana have public toilets?
Beltana also has unisex public toilets on the right-hand side of the hall, without needing to go through the gate. These are shared with day visitors.
Is there drinking water at Beltana?
Yes, Beltana has desalinated drinking water available for purchase.
5L for $2 / 20L for $4
I’d recommend checking WikiCamps for up-to-date reviews on drinking water availability throughout the Flinders Ranges.
Are camp fires allowed at Beltana campground?
Fires are permitted in the communal fire pit only. You’ll need to carry in your fire wood, there’s no wood collection allowed in Beltana or surrounds.
Are dogs allowed at Beltana?
Yes, dogs are welcome at Beltana campground as along as they’re restrained on a leash.
Beltana is beautiful to walk around in the evenings, it’s wonderfully peaceful. It does get cold as the sun goes down so be sure to pack accordingly!
Choosing a camp site
There’s two different camping areas at Beltana on either side of the hall and at a community area with picnic shelters and BBQs.
We stayed in site 1, right beside the playground. I’d recommend this site for families with a young child as it’s a little safer having your own car and camp set up right by the unfenced play space. Site 1 is also furtherest from the road and closest to the ammenities.
That said, you’ll be quite close to the communal fire pit. If a group wants to use it, this might not be the quietest spot when it comes to bedtime. We didn’t have any issues during our stay. I imagine it’s rare that Beltana is super busy.
There are a couple of sides close the community park with picnic benches and BBQs too which might be nice if you’d like to use those facilities. You’ll be a long way from the toilet block though.
Broken glass warning
There’s an abundance of old broken glass littered all over Beltana. It’s all through the camp ground as well as through the town.
It could be a deterrent to families travelling through as it’s difficult to feel safe with your child playing around broken glass.
Unfortunately this is common to several campgrounds (especially around ruins) in the Flinders Ranges.
I spent a fair amount of time picking up glass around our campsite through our stay but as the gravel shifts, more glass pops through. It’s such a shame for an otherwise lovely spot to be.
Things to do around Beltana:
Explore Beltana
Beltana itself is worth a half-day of exploring. Each of the buildings has its history told in clear signage and walking through the town builds a really complete understanding of its past.
The walk is mostly pram-friendly, as long as you’re prepared for some bumpy ground - we managed just fine with a stroller. Beltana can get quite muddy so watch out for that after rains.
Be sure to head out to the old Railway Station too - it’s a private residence so you can’t get too close, but it’s a beautiful building.
Enjoy a picnic lunch at one of the new sheltered benches or head back to camp if you’re staying the night.
Day trip to Leigh Creek and Aroona Dam
Leigh Creek is a former closed coal mining town, trying to imagine a new future for its remaining residents as a public town. There’s a nice playground with new shade sails, right next to the oval and a picnic area.
The Outback Resort Restaurant has typical pub-quality meals with generous serves - we skipped a kids meal and had plenty to share with our toddler. Service was quick and there are plenty of tables.
It is a little strange driving around town with so many construction fences in place - 200 vacant houses were demolished in 2022 to reduce the town’s footprint to a manageable size with the loss of population after the mine closed. The town hopes the land will recover and fences will be removed.
Aroona Dam is a nice picnic spot. It’s worth a drive in for look (free entry, gravel road) but there’s not a whole lot else there. Public toilets, picnic benches, BBQ and some signage is in the top-most carpark.
There is a 5km loop walk - we didn’t attempt the walk based on poor reviews of a steep, rough track with disappearing markers!
Visit Parachilna
Head to the Prarie hotel for their famous “Feral Platter”. The menu looks delicious, with a mix of feral, native and regional ingredients taking center stage. The Prarie hotel also offers tours, including to the Nilpena Ediacara National Park.
Ancient sea floor ripples across the rocks in Nilpena Ediacara National Park and many other amazing locations in the Flinders Ranges.
Nilpena Ediacara National Park
A brand new national park in South Australia, with a truly unique visitor experience. Entry by guided tour only, with booking through the Prarie Hotel, Parachilna or online through the Parks website (read my review here).
Experience Parachilna Gorge
A beautifully scenic drive, check out Glass Gorge too if you’re planning an out-and-back trip. You’ll want a whole morning or afternoon to really enjoy the drive.
Blinman
Take a full-day to drive through Parachilna Gorge and experience the old copper mining town, Blinman. If you’re interested in a mine tour, I’ve written about our experiences - including tips and tricks for taking a younger child on tour. The town itself is worth a look - with a self-guided walking tour, fabulous bakery and a tiny playground too!
After the Blinman Mine Tour, check out the self-guided above ground tour to complete your history of the mine and tour. Finish with a Cornish pasty at the bakery.
Summary:
Beltana is a great spot for an overnight to explore Nilpena Ediacara National Park, Parachilna or on the way further north
Mostly family friendly - shame about the broken glass
Expensive but great facilities
Beltana is worth a couple hours to explore even if you’re not planning to camp
Family holiday coming up? Check out my ultimate guide to planning a Flinders Ranges trip with a toddler.
Or find more information in one of the articles below.
We acknowledge over 65,000 years of continuous care and custodianship of the Adnyamathanha people over these lands and waters. Their sovereignty has never been ceded. We pay respect to Elders past and present, and the Adnyamathanha people as the traditional and rightful owners of this Country.