Kings Canyon: How to get the most out of your family adventure (with a toddler!)
Watarrka (Kings Canyon) and Watarrka National Park are on Luritja Country.
Is Kings Canyon worth visiting?
Absolutely! I wasn’t sure what to expect but I’m so glad we made the stop here for a few days. I found there was plenty to do, despite being a quieter and more peaceful setting than exploring Uluru and Yulara.
The spectacular Canyon Rim Walk is definitely one of our favourite walks to date.
We loved our Sunrise at the Light Towers tour.
And I highly recommend checking out Karrke Tours and joining their guides for a genuine Aboriginal Cultural experience!
Definitely an essential stop on any Red Centre trip!
Things to do around Kings Canyon with a toddler
Whilst planning our Red Centre trip, it was difficult to know how much time to spend in each place.
I’d read many travellers recommend a single night at Kings Canyon/Watarrka, but travelling with a toddler and a camper trailer means overnight stops are a lot of effort for us.
We ended up spending three nights at Kings Canyon. In hindsight, I wish we’d spent an extra day here instead of Yulara (near Uluru) to get caught up on washing, etc. because the caravan park is much nicer!
Kings Canyon is definitely worth at least a couple of days and if you enjoy a slower pace, you could easily spend 3-4 days here.
Canyon Rim Walk
6 km loop / 4 hours
Grade 4 - Moderate to difficult
Hot weather closure
Parks Pass required
This spectacular walk is well-worth the effort. Every step of the 6km loop is beautiful. It’s our favourite hike so far and absolutely a highlight of our Red Centre trip.
You’ll need a moderate level of fitness and a few hours in the morning to complete the hike.
The initial 500m is very steep steps up “Heartbreak Hill”. There’s a defibrillator at the top, which highlights how strenuous the climb is. It’s certainly a work out!
However, it’s not technically difficult. Take breaks as you need and it’ll be an entirely manageable climb for anyone fit enough to walk the 6km loop.
The rest of the walk is comparatively easy. The trail markers (blue arrows) are obvious and easy to follow. Once you’re at the top, it’s pretty flat for the most part and you can enjoy strolling around the canyon rim at a leisurely pace.
There are excellent information boards to learn about Kings Canyon as you go. I wish I could have spent more time reading but Sprout was pretty keen to keep moving.
There’s a few additional lookouts and offshoots from the main track too. I’m sure the views from these vantage points would be stunning too.
Being on the Canyon Rim feels a little surreal. The scale and majesty of the canyon is difficult to capture in photographs. The further I walked, the greater my appreciation for the enormity of the place, its history and its natural beauty.
The Garden of Eden is your crossing point from one side of the canyon rim to the next. You’ll follow staircases down to an oasis; a magnificent waterhole surrounded by lush vegetation. This is a particularly beautiful part of the walk and a sacred men’s site for the Luritja people.
Across the other side, you’ll find the one-way gate and join the South Wall walk to continue back down to the carpark. Out of the canyon and looking far out over the plains, the descent is enjoyable with such a beautiful view.
It really was a privilege to experience Kings Canyon with our little family and absolutely a must-do on a Central Australian road trip.
Start Early, Hot Weather Closure
The Kings Canyon Rim walk closes at 9 AM when forecast temperature is above 36 degrees.
We began walking at around 8 AM on a day forecast for 30 degrees in July. I was glad to be finished before lunchtime! It was already getting hot enough.
Shade is extremely limited along the walk - there are a few spots to sit in the shade off the trail for a rest but the majority of the walk is in full sun.
We took two longish breaks with Sprout running around, lots of photos and set a fairly leisurely pace. We needed four hours to complete the Canyon Rim Walk.
Pre-baby perhaps we would have completed the same walk in 3 hours, but it’s likely we would have added in the extra sections back then too.
NT Parks Pass
You’ll need to purchase a NT Parks Pass to enter Watarrka National Park for the Canyon Rim Walk. You can read more about purchasing a pass and find out which parks are included here.
The booking system is a little painful, so try to organise this before you need it.
You need to make a login to purchase a Parks Pass or book campsites at any park in the Northern Territory.
If you’re ready to make a booking, use the Northern Territory Parks Booking System site.
If you’re also heading to Uluru and Kata Tjuṯa National Park, you’ll need a separate pass from Parks Australia. You can purchase that pass here.
(And check out my guide to Uluru and Kata Tjuṯa, here!)
Walking with a kid
Jacob carried Sprout in our Osprey Poco Plus carrier.
There were a few safe spots to let Sprout out where she was able to climb and run around in relative safety. We had two breaks for snacks / playtime during our 4 hour walk.
If you’re using a kid-carrier, this walk should only be attempted if you’ve had plenty of practice. It’s not technically difficult, but 4 hours / 6 km is a long time to carry a load you’re unaccustomed to.
It’s also a very long time for a child to sit in the pack without some practise leading up to it. Sprout’s had a bit of practice and knows what to expect.
Being a super social little person, she loves all the attention - she’s always first to call out hi to anyone on the trail!
This walk is definitely doable with a child - none of the walk is technically difficult. There were lots of families enjoying the canyon - with a mix of ages. The youngest we saw walking (sprinting!) was probably around 5 years old.
Things to consider:
DISTANCE - Can my child and I actually walk that far?
TIME - Will my child cope with and enjoy hours of walking? Can I be ‘on’ and actively supervising for that length of time?
RISK - Steep stairs, cliff edges, falls and natural hazards. Can my child follow instructions and stick to the path for 4 hours? Is my child developmentally ready to assess risks?
EXPERIENCE - Do we walk regularly as a family? Have I done something similar with my kid before?
I’d recommend bringing plenty of snacks to break up the walk. You’ll need enough water for each person too, which can get pretty heavy!
Kings Creek Walk
2.6 km return / 1 hour
Out-and-back walk
Grade 2 - Easy
This is a great family-friendly walk to experience the beautiful Kings Canyon. The trail is easy to follow, with a paved surface and is suitable for younger children.
I highly recommend doing both walks if you can. It doesn’t matter which you complete first but we did the Canyon Rim walk first, then Kings Creek Walk and it was fun to look up and see where we had been.
We used our kid carrier again as Sprout wasn’t quite up to do the full 2.6 km herself but she walked most of the return.
There’s decent patches of shade along the walk so this would be manageable in warmer weather.
You’ll find a picturesque rest stop at the end of the walk into the gorge, perhaps for a picnic lunch or snack break. Sprout loved the bronze statues, especially the perfect little birds!
Kathleen Springs Walk
2.6 km / 1.5 hour return
Grade 1 - Easy
Wheelchair access
We missed out on doing this walk. Other travellers we spoke to said it was covered in beautiful wildflowers (July) so I felt a little sad that we missed out.
There’s information boards to read along the trail and evidence of ancient inhabitation by the Luritja people. The trail leads to a spring-fed waterhole at the head of Kathleen Gorge.
This is another family friendly option and something we’d like to complete on a return trip.
Light Towers Tour
I loved our sunrise tour of the Light Towers at Discovery Parks Kings Canyon!
The Light Towers are absolutely worth a look and our tour experience was excellent.
As you approach each tower, watch the colour change and hear one voice clearly out of the music. Walk in concentric circles towards the centre, hearing a new voice at each tower. Walk through the middle and hear all the voices united.
It's very cool and difficult to do it justice, a real “see it to believe it” experience.
I imagine it would be a more spiritual experience without littles running around but it was super easy to do with our toddler.
Sprout loves music and the towers were a real hit. Best of all, it was just our little family on tour so we got to enjoy the experience of having the Light Towers all to ourselves.
Ticket Prices:
Adult (13 years+): $45.00
Child (2-12 years): $30.00
Infant (Under 2 years): Free
Read more about tour options and book online here.
Light Towers or Field of Light?
As it’s another desert light installation by Bruce Munro, we had to wonder how it would compare to the Field of Lights at Uluru. We took both tours at sunrise - knowing this worked better for our family than an evening tour.
If you’re interested in finding out how the two experiences differ or trying to decide which tour to take, I recommend reading this comparison piece.
You’ll also find much more detail about what’s included in the tour and my reflections on the experience to help you decide if it’s a good fit for your family!
Karrke Tours
Karrke Tours runs authentic Aboriginal Cultural experiences within Wanmarra, a small Aboriginal community at Wattarka National Park.
It’s family-owned business run with passionate, knowledgeable and engaging tour guides.
You’ll spend an hour on tour, learning about indigenous bush foods, traditional life and ongoing practices in caring for and staying connected to country.
Our Experience with Karrke Tours
Our Karrke tour was another highlight on our Red Centre tour. I wasn’t sure what to expect - and especially how we would go with a 1 year old on tour.
The tour is fast-paced, you’ll get a heap of information in the hour!
You don’t need any prior knowledge or experience to enjoy the tour. Our guides were welcoming, knowledgeable and professional.
I appreciated that the tour moves to different spots for different topics. It’s only a very short walk between displays but moving on feels energising and gives kids a short chance to wiggle.
There are some optional hands-on components. Generally you’ll sit down at a display, your tour will chat about the objects or process and then answer any questions.
You’ll have time for a closer look and to touch the objects before moving on at your own pace.
Sprout enjoyed playing with the seeds, ochre and necklaces. It’s an easy rhythm to fall into and nicely predictable for kids and grown ups.
Touring with a little kid
I had expected that Jacob and I would need to take turns moving with Sprout away from the group if she got restless. I was pleasantly surprised when we made it through the tour without taking a break!
Some things that may have helped:
Encourage big steps, stomps, hops and jumps between displays
Sitting on the floor mats (instead of benches) for greater freedom of movement
Time to play with the new objects
Water and snacks (we put a pouch in our Subo Bottle and a packet of “puffs”)
Small toy (e.g. a little car or doll)
Driving to Karrke Tours:
Karrke Tour is about 40 km / 30 minutes from Discovery Parks Kings Canyon.
The last part of the journey is via unsealed road with some corrugations.
Facilities
There is a toilet block separate male/female cubicle, with a flush toilet and sink in each.
The toilet block has a ramp.
There are no other facilities.
Photos, filming and recording on tour
“Photographs are very welcome. Karrke Tours respectfully ask that there be NO filming and or voice recording on the tour”.
- direct from the Karrke Tours website
A general note for travelling Australia:
Of course, it’s always respectful to ask before taking photos or filming.
And it’s worth noting that for some Aboriginal people, photographs and films of people are not permitted in their belief system.
Even if someone is running a tour, speaking to a group or leading an activity, it doesn't mean they’ve consented to photographs or videos.
Ask permission first.
Tour Times:
Open from 1st February through to 31st October.
Tours run Wednesday to Friday at 10:30AM & 2:00PM.
Ticket Prices:
Adult (12 years+): $99.00
Child (5-11 years): $44.00
Infant (Under 5 years): Free
Concession: $79.00
Book your tickets through the Karrke Tours website.
How long to stay at Kings Canyon?
Assuming you want to see and do everything (and who wouldn’t?) you’ll need at least two full days at King Canyon.
Day 1: Sunrise at the Light Towers and straight to the Canyon Rim Walk. Enjoy a meal at the bistro and take a dip in the pool.
Day 2: Karrke Tours and an afternoon stroll along Kings Creek Walk
We spent three full days at Kings Canyon this time and it was the right amount of time for us. We did the Canyon Rim Walk on the first day, Light Towers for sunrise and Kings Creek Walk on day two and then spent our final day at Karrke Tours with a quiet afternoon catching up on some jobs.
On a return trip, we’d love to check out Kathleen Springs, take the guided walk with Discovery Park guides and repeat the stunning Canyon Rim Walk again.
Where to stay near Kings Canyon
Discovery Parks - Kings Canyon
We stayed at Discovery Parks - Kings Canyon which had a massive upgrade shortly before our stay (in 2023).
The amenities were brand new and the sites were spacious. There’s a small swimming pool, but unfortunately no playground - here’s hoping it’s still on the list of upgrades.
Without a doubt, it’s the location to be to explore Kings Canyon. With different dining options, a resort, guided tours and the home of the Light Tours, there’s a lot on offer.
But the main thing… it’s the closest.
We still have a middle-of-the-day nap, so we prioritise being as close as possible. Having to drive to/from attractions means a huge chunk of time lost from our stay. Driving naps are great, but only if you’re getting somewhere!
Some practicalities:
Check-in for the caravan park is at the resort entrance.
The store has very limited food stock, you’d be lucky to even get a meal together. It’s pricey too. Stock up at Alice or Yulara instead.
Washers are $4 a load and… not great. Would give them a miss if you’re not desperate.
The camp kitchen isn’t stocked, it’s just a place to wash up. There are sheltered BBQs around for cooking and picnic areas.
Dingos. They wander through the camp, looking for an easy meal. A family had a dingo looking to join their pancake breakfast and understandably, it gave them quite a fright! You’re most likely to see dingos during early morning or after dark.
Cost:
Expect to pay $70+ for an unpowered site and $90+ for a powered site during peak season.
Kings Creek Station
Looking for something different? Kings Creek Station is another option in the vicinity of Kings Canyon. You’ll drive past if you’re coming from Yulara, it’s about 30 minutes before the caravan park.
From the reviews I’ve read on WikiCamps and TripAdviser, this will be a more basic, “bush camp” feel with the typical Red Centre price tag.
That said, it’s definitely cheaper than the Discovery Parks, whether you’re travelling solo or family of any size.
Cost for powered site*
Adult, $32.50/night
Child (6-16yo), $12.00/night
Family (2 adults + children under 16), $75.00
Child 5 years and under free of charge.
Cost for unpowered site*
Adult, $27.50/night
Child (6-16yo), $12.00/night
Family (2 adults + children under 16), $70.00
Child 5 years and under free of charge.
*Prices valid until 31st March 2024.
Free Camping
There’s no camping in Watarrka National Park and free camp options are limited.
Ginty’s Lookout offers free camping for one night. It’s about 30 minutes past Kings Canyon.
If you’re stopping in for a quick look and continuing on, it would be okay.
Of course, arguably it’s not worth stopping in at King Canyon for a quick look but each to their own!
Getting to Kings Canyon
If you’re in the beginning stages of planning your trip, it’s worth bringing up a map and getting a gauge of the distances and travel times.
Kings Canyon is pretty much the middle of nowhere. And whilst everyone who’s been will tell you it’s worth the stop, it’s not a small detour if you’re originally heading straight up (or down!) the middle of Australia.
From Yulara (the closest town to Uluru)
The 300km drive from Yulara is entirely sealed highway. It took us most of the day, by the time we packed up camp at Yulara and got going. Driving time is about 3 hours.
From Yulara, you’ll backtrack along the Lasseter Highway until the Kings Canyon turn-off onto Luritja Road.
From Alice Springs
Sealed Roads / Suitable for 2WD
Travel south on the Stuart Highway until Erldunda Roadhouse (about 2 hours drive). Turn onto the Lasseter Highway and continue until the Kings Canyon turn off onto Luritja Road.
The total trip is about 470km and will take around 4.5 - 5 hours without stops.
You could break it up with a stop at Erldunda Roadhouse. We stayed the night and it was okay. Fairly run down - but with a half decent playground which was a welcome surprise!
Unsealed / 4WD only
From Alice, you’ll head through the West MacDonnell Ranges (also stunning and worth a look).
You’ll take the Mereenie Loop Drive through to Kings Canyon.
You need a permit to travel the road which you can purchase at Alice Springs Visitor Information Centre (or Kings Canyon Resort).
The cost seems to vary slighty, I think we paid around $7.00 at Kings Canyon Discovery Parks. There’s no option for buying the permit online.
The permit allows travel for three days from the date of issue BUT you are not allowed to stop along the Mereenie Loop Drive (so certainly no camping).
Driving the Mereenie Loop Road
We travelled the Mereenie Loop Drive in July 2023.
We heard a couple of horror stories (all about caravans) right before we set off and weren't sure what to expect.
It was fine. We had no problem towing our camper trailer and encountered similar corrugations and road conditions throughout our outback travels.
Tyres down = essential. Be prepared to drive all day - some spots are slow going (25km/hr). You’ll not get above 70-80 km/hr in any stretch.
Look out for red and white warning triangles and slow down.
These markers are for road hazards and often significant damage to the road.
The markers are sparse - they’re typically only used when the hazard is difficult to see, e.g. a washout on the road edge. Don’t assume that no markers means no hazard!
You can check the Northern Territory Road Report for road closures, hazards and restrictions before setting off. There’s also a mobile app Road Report NT.
You’d do well to find out the current conditions from someone who’s recently taken the road. Nothing beats local knowledge!
Know where you are landing
I’d also suggest knowing where you are landing; know which campsite or accomodation you’re aiming for. It’s good to have a fairly fixed end point so that you’re not driving further than necessary and to reduce the need for decisions when you’re already tired.
If you’re planning on camping in the MacDonnell Ranges, some areas can fill up by early afternoon.
Whilst there’s now a fee and booking required for MacDonnell Ranges campsites, they are not allocated. We found several other travellers were unaware of the need for bookings or passes.
There’s often no service by the time you’re in the campground so bookings need to be made in advance.
For booking campgrounds or purchasing a park pass, go to the Northern Territory Parks Booking System website.
We camped a couple nights at Finke River Two Mile campground (below) and it was a such a peaceful and scenic location.
Where to next?
Having come from Uluru, we headed to the MacDonnell Ranges next and Alice Springs. We spent about 3 days exploring the area and it definitely wasn’t enough! We’d love to see more of Alice and the ranges in a future trip.
Alas, time was running out before heading to our next adventure!
If you’re planning a Red Centre trip, you might like to read more:
We acknowledge over 65,000 years of continuous care and custodianship of the Luritja people over these lands and waters. Their sovereignty has never been ceded. We pay respect to Elders past and present, and the Luritja and Multitjarra people as the traditional and rightful owners of this Country.